CHAPTER 2 - BLACK LABELS
We love our permanent catalog of scents, but we are above all... fickle. We flirt with each season's "latest greatest" fragrances and dabble with our own distractions. Some of them are "keepers" and some we keep as dear memories. These are some of our memorable Limited and Retired blends you may have heard of.
ABC Gum - Summer O4
A fresh just-chewed wad of sugary-sweet bright-pink bubblegum.
Arsenic & Old Lace (also appeared at MTAC O5 as Lolita) - Summer O8
One of our very first blends. Sweet black cherry tarts with warm, clinging honeymusk and a soft wisp of old-fashioned perfume - roses, honeysuckle, gardenia and chamomile.
Beguiling - Summer O5
An unassuming, but deceptively complex, herbal-floral. Deep woods, heather, jasmine and ylang barely sweetened by bright grapefruit, lime, and bergamot.
Beta Carotene - Summer O5 & Spring O6
The sweet crisp fragrance of just-juiced carrots, garden fresh greens and wee touches of muguet and citrus.
Birth Rite - 5th Anniversary August O8, Super B'Day O9, 6th Anniversary August O9, Super B'Day 1O, 7th Anniversary August 1O
Layer cake. Lightly spiced with cinnamon and ginger, frosted with berries, and grounded with a resinous skin-scent - precious amber, sweet myrrh, tonka bean and peppercorn.
A blend of sweet berry and tart lime notes, grounded by a slightly tipsy touch of cheap dry wine.
Cobwebs - Fall 1O
An ambiguous spill of Cabernet and salt. Woodrot and sooty, guttered candles caked with age-old dust.
Bleach - Debut
Nondescript, ambiguously "fresh," "soapy," and "clean". Delightfully unisex.
Bloodsugar - Spring 11
Bleeding orange spliced with gauzy cotton candy.
Canaan - Spring O6
Warm milk, sticky bronzed honey, succulent grapes and berries, and exotic perfume - Tunisian jasmine, tuberose, the indolent lily of the valley, and Madagascar cloves.
Contrary - Megacon O7 & Summer O7
Tart, wild strawberry creamed with soft vanilla. In counter balance, an incisive bite of cumin, crisp pear, and green tea.
Copacabana - Summer O6
Creamed coconut spiked with fresh pineapple and a dollop of just-ripened banana.
Deferential - Summer O7
A perfectly respectable men's cologne built on unassuming basenotes of amber and vanilla musk, cedarwood and sandalwood, leather, vetiver, and oakmoss. A touch of citrus for interest - bergamot, lemon, orange, verbena, lime and mandarin - and a forgettable smattering of violets and lavender.
Dirty Laundry - Winter O5 & Spring O6
Clean cotton, shocked ozone, and crisp linens.
Discord - Winter O5
A harmonious blend of tart granny smith, soft sweet pear, and crisp red delicious.
Dulces Refritos - Spring O8
Brain-freeze cold vanilla ice-cream, and greasy cinnamon tostadas, drizzled in honey.
Fade - July 11
Dark myrrh and musk, pipe tobacco, and a vintage wash of sweetgrass barely brightened with lavender, peach and blackberries.
Freezerburn - Midwinter 1O
Siberian fir and stately pines dusted with powder-soft layers of sweet snow.
Deeply peppered woodsmoke over a layer of creme.
Frostbite - Winter O6, Winter O7, Winter O8, Winter O9, Winter 1O
Jasmine and lily of the valley frozen with fir and green apple. An incisive bite of citrus, and a chilling wooden core.
Gloop - Midwinter O6, Fall O6 , Winter O7, Winter O8, Winter O9, Winter 1O
Fluffed marshmallow fudge.
Grenade - Summer O7
Lemon-lime soda sweetened with grenadine and a single maraschino cherry.
Grampa Joe - BPAL Raffle O6, Fall O6 & Winter O7
Grandpa’s toffee candies with a stiff shot of rum.
A slightly unhinged scent from our original prototype catalog. Antiseptic crisp lavender, and an elegant twist of jasmine absolute.
A philosophical scent composed of the spicey antiquity of green tea, faint perky lemon notes, and sultry sweet jasmine.
Iceberg -Spring O6
Crisp, clean and icey green.
A shameless blend of cheeky citrus notes - sweet orange, pink grapefruit, lemon, lime - saved from an altogether fruity fate by flirty white neroli blossoms and a bubbly splash of champagne.
Jem - Fall O5
Over-the-top exotic florals, neroli, ylang, lilac, jasmine, tuberose and an unmistakable sweetness of vanilla absolute underscored by a soft musk. The misfit? Spiced crushed peppercorns.
Just Desserts - Late Winter O7
Blood oranges dripping over a warm, resinous vanilla, wrapped in a dry peel of orange zest.
Killer Treez - June O9
The bleeding sap of a thousand fallen conifers covered in maple syrup.
Lipstick Lost - Summer O5, Midwinter 1O, Midwinter 11
Total adolescence. Effervescent cherry, smart-aleck sassafras and a creamy dollop of vanilla.
Lost - Debut
Classic creamy coconut and crisp lemongrass blended into absolutely desolate harmony.
Mall Santa - Winter O9, Winter 1O
The pervasive scent of cinnamon buns and cream cheese frosting, underscored with cheap whiskey, tobacco stains, toffee candies and delicious filthy lucre.
Miss Edith - Summer O7, Midwinter O8, Midwinter O9
Lemony black tea with milk, English Lavender and Roses beneath a thick layer of dust.
Moral Decay - Summer O7 & Fall O8
Honey sweet, smoky lapsang souchong tea, brewed too strong and liberally debauched with aniseed, ginger, cinnamon, bergamot and gentian.
Mosh - Summer O7
Warm beer, sweaty leather, cigarette smoke and an elusive touch of hemp.
Mudslide - Debut, Fall O8
A positively filthy mix of day-old coffee grounds and vetyver, blackened hazelnut, sweet graham, and rich cream.
Neisthai - Summer O8
Sultry evenings, sweet iced tea in glasses beaded with sweat. Age-old roses and magnolia blossoms. Fallen peaches and wild blackberries. Honeycrisps and banks of honeysuckle. Acres of cut clover, mown grass and old, musty wood. Neisthai, to return - the homecoming. This fragrance fuses classic Southern archetypes with the scent-memory of my own picturesque homestead garden. More than the sum of its parts, Neisthai draws on rich, gourmand notes, delicate florals, crisp fruits, and traditional base notes to create an evocative whole.
Nightshade - Debut
Deceptively feminine floral blend of ylang ylang, powdery rose, jasmine and a seductive undercurrent of deep, dark chocolate. Save yourself from this sweet death trap? Why bother?
Novocaine - Summer O5 & Summer O7
Absolutely icy. A chilling blend of eucalyptus, peppermint, and menthol, sweetened with a splash of clementine, with a smoldering undercurrent of black pepper.
One Eyed Willy - Winter O6
Lots of salty open air and musk, spritzed with West Indies Lime, spiced with Indonesian Clove, and splashed with a fashionable touch of Vermouth.
Pangaea - Summer O5
A high-end fragrant panoply. Exotic sandalwood, neroli, vetiver and amber are all grounded by domestic patchouli and musk. Bright citrus notes of lemon and grapefruit find sweet ends in vanilla and chocolate.
Pick Your Poison - Fall O5
A sheer pink blend of violets and sassafras.
Pieman - Winter O5
Bizarre blueberry and succulent blackberry, a touch of pie crust, and a breath of honeysuckle.
Pimp - Winter O5
Ozone and ice - salty fresh. Marks the debut of our "Guy Friendly" line.
Pink Dreams - Fall O5
A warm blackberry wine. Other highlights? Faint touches of grape, jasmine and lilac and a musky warm vanilla drydown.
Piqued - Winter O5
Juicy ripe apricots and crisp freesia - elegance and sweetness.
Pipevine Swallowtail - June O9
Aromatic basil and bitter tomato leaf in an ephemeral haze of neroli and tangerine.
Pyromania - Discontinued
A highly unique fragrance based on black pepper essential oil. Peculiarly spicy, warm black pepper, sweetened with brown sugar, and touched with a veil of smoke.
A puzzling juxtaposition of Pink Pepper and Peppermint, Basil and Bergamot, Geranium and Grapefruit.
Quick or Dead? - Summer O7 & O8
Sarsparilla and sweetgrass, worn saddle leather, tobacco smoke and the remains of a spicy lime cologne. The essence of the wild west. When hard work meant your homestead, and if you weren't Quick you'd sure as sin end up Dead (much like the armadillo roadkill that litters our wide open praries). Saddle up, yo.
Raspberry Swirl - BPAL Raffle O5, Midwinter O6, Midwinter O8, Midwinter O9
Sweet red raspberry creamed with soft vanilla.
Retrograde - Mercury Retrograde Fall O8
Seamless layers of incense and earth - amber, oppopanax, sandalwood, egyptian musk, old oakmoss - sweetened with tonka and black vanilla. Clarifying Bulgarian lavender, a black haze of orchid, osmanthus and narcissus and a jolt of raw black pepper and clary sage.
Shanghaied - Winter O6 - Discontinued
A faint breath of perfume - jasmine, strawberry, peach, rose and lily of the valley swallowed up by a citrus frenzy of bergamot, lemon and tangerine. And then a backdrop of exotic woods, spices, and resins - bamboo, cedar, ginger, nutmeg, sandalwood, pine and coriander.
Shrapnel - Fall O8
Sugared cranberries laced with ozone and incense and spiked with cracked peppercorns.
Sidewalk - June O9
Hot concrete drenched in sunshowers. Summer melons, limeades and fresh-cut grass.
Slipdress - Midwinter 11
A skin-warm core of dragon's blood, myrrh, and musk, caught in a chiffon-swish of blackberry, black orchid, vanilla bean, peach fuzz, and a wisp of garden-fresh basil.
Smashing - Fall O5, Winter O6, Winter O7
Creamy sweet pumpkin pie with a full complement of spices - cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves.
Spun Sugar - Summer O5
One of those terribly popular must-have scents. A delicate blend of clingy vanilla and sandalwood, sweetened with heliotrope and the teeniest drop of cherry.
Strychnine - Debut & Fall O8
Ripe peaches and green apples spiked with a menacing hint of cinnamon and ginger, sweetened with tobacco and underscored with burning oak and earth.
Sugarbuzz - Winter O6 & Summer O7
Cotton candy covered cherries and raspberries with sweet touches of vanilla.
Supervillainess - Super B'Day 11
Dry woods, worn-in leather, bittersweet cacao and arabica, succulent blackberry and lime, and a salty thread of cilantro.
Sweat - Fall O5 Katrina Relief
An unusually demure departure from our usual style, this one is fresh, green and very clean. A dewy blend of aloe vera, new-mown grass, and tangy-sweet melon.
Sweetgum Swamp - June 11
Old dunes, sturdy salt-burned woods, and sunwarmed, wild blueberries.
Tahitian Moon - Summer O5
One of our more dramatic blends... Enticing florals, rose, jasmine and lilac. Deep dark amber, patchouli and incense, and creamy crisp Madagascar vanilla. A flirtation with bright grapefruit and sweet bloody orange.
Tart - Debut
Sweet, cheap citrus, with a brilliant lemon topnote. When life hands you lemons...
Tears - Fall O5 Katrina Relief (also appeared at MTAC O5 as Monsoon)
An elegant aquatic blend, with notes of salt and rain, touches of frangipani and muguet, and a sheer wash of amber and musk.
Torchsong - Midwinter O9, Valentines 1O, Va
A memory of raw coconut infused with heavy white blossoms - tuberose, orchid, and awapuhi - and tonka bean, ginger crushed underfoot, damp moss and your vanilla perfume. Store it in a mahogony box, lit with spices.
Trauma - Fall O7, Summer O8
Ripe peaches dripping with dragon’s blood, against a sweet skin-scent of Egyptian musk, amber and myrrh. Trauma strikes on a visceral level -a violation of skin and blood. An impact that leaves you seeing stars, an interruption of life's sweetness.
The Truffle Trade - Midwinter O9
A neglected box o' chocolates - cherry cordials, coconut creams, almond clusters, raspberry parfaits - covered in dust, tossed aside for bigger game.
Vague - Summer O7
An unassuming faint floral with touches of neroli, iris, lily of the valley and geranium.
Vintage - Spring O6
Dark dusty corners filled with oak, antique spices, and yesterday's vanilla.
Wasabi - MTAC O5, Winter O6, Summer O8
Green tea with a black pepper burn and brisk splash of citrus. Wasabi, on it's own, doesn't have much fragrance to speak of. Well, unless you count that metholated afterburn at the back of your sinuses. By using the aromatic notes of a good Sencha, and the peculiar dryness of black pepper we have instead chosen to evoke the taste, the experience of Wasabi. The fragrance is just as crisp and refreshing as its namesake condiment.
Wormwood - Midwinter O6
Wormwood essence and a bright splash of juniper against a base of sweetgrass, oakmoss and sage.
Apple Butter - (Originally "Apple Jelly" Fall O5)
Thick, honeyed apple-butter, lightly spiced with summer-sweet clover and cinnamon.
Succulent Georgia peach, thick with clotted cream and a dark touch of clove.
Bitter, earthy and coffee-esque. Gently spiked with sassafras, cinnamon and cloves.
Summer sweet Carolina Jessamine, vanilla extract, and a vintage touch of dust.
Moonlight & Magnolias - (Originally Late Winter O6)
Showy magnolias and gardenias with a supporting cast of jasmine, honeysuckle and orange blossom. Add a crush of fallen peaches on dew-covered cut-grass to recreate an antebellum garden under moonlight.
Pecan Pie - (Originally Fall O5)
Rich, nutty pecans, dark hard-packed brown sugar, and a spiced handful of peppercorns.
Spiced dusk in August. Freshly mowed lawns. Faded banks of honeysuckle. Wilted bouquets of orange blossom.